Urban metro systems are the lifeblood of most cities; tens of thousands of locals and visitors alike use them on a daily basis. Travelling on often crowded trains can be unpleasant, but in many cases the experience is made more appealing by the fact that in many European cities the metro systems also double as art galleries, showcasing designs and works of famous artists. Station platforms, ticket halls, passageways, accesses reflect art trends, visions, ambitious plans – or maybe just the desire to create spaces people could feel comfortable and at ease into, even while doing something quite ordinary like commuting from A to B. 

So when you travel in these six cities below, perhaps from one museum to another, don't forget that there is an awful lot of amazing architecture and art below ground, not just above... 

LONDON 

Why it's so special

London has one of the most famous metro systems in the world and yet many people forget that it also a huge architectural treasure trove. The man behind such legacy is Charles Holden. Holden designed some of the most iconic Art-Deco stations on the network in the 1920s and 1930s, together with the HQ of London Transport, situated right above St James' Station and the imposing Senate House at London University in Bloomsbury. A key defining moment of Holden's work is when he travelled to Germany, Scandinavia and the Netherlands in the early 1930s. After this journey his projects displayed a stronger European/Scandic influence. 

What to look for

One of Holden's first project was a string of stations on today's Northern Line, between Clapham North and Morden. These South London stations, built in the mid-1920s have a typical Modernist look and are characterised by the white Portland stone cladding, huge ticket halls and the iconic Underground roundel in coloured glass, framed by two columns at the front. Another of Holden's creations was the beautiful and functional large circular ticket hall of Piccadilly Circus station. After his trip to Northern Europe, Holden designed the stations on the Northern and Western extensions of the Piccadilly line. One of my favourite is Southgate, which looks like a flying saucer. Another very interesting station is Gants Hill on the Central Line: this station is entirely below-ground and was designed in the 1930s but because of the war was not completed until 1947. Here Holden experimented with a grand vaulted ceiling, a style he saw in the Moscow metro.

PARIS 

Why it's so special

Paris Metro boasts probably one of the most recognisable designs, particularly the famous entrances to the subways, which were designed by architect Hector Guimard. In fact Monsieur Guimard designed two types of entrances, one with a glass roof and one without; both are iconic example of French Art-Nouveau, built in cast iron and displaying the classic botanic symbolism associated with this style. Sadly of the 141 entrances built between 1900 and 1912 only 86 remains as many were (criminally, I'd say) removed in the 1960s. 

What to look for

Although not all the Guimard's distinctive entrances were torn down, unfortunately just two roofed accesses remain, one at Porte Dauphine and another at Abbesses. The inside of all the stations built in the same period (i.e. before WWI) is quite austere and with the famous white glossy bevelled rectangular tiles. The reason for the stark choice was that electric lighting was very rudimental at the time and so this design allowed for a better refection of the light. When the new North-Line was built (now line 12 and part of line 13) the design was improved adding arches of coloured tiles – the colour to mark interchange from ordinary stations. The best preserved station in this very distinctive style is Solférino.

STOCKHOLM

Why it's so special

Stockholm metro (Tunnelbana) was developed in the 1950s, at a time of strong cultural and artistic expansion in Sweden. Being the city located on a number of islands, the tunnels had to be dug very deep, in fact right into the bedrock - and in most stations the bedrock itself has been left magnificently exposed, adding to the cavernous and almost pre-historic atmosphere. In the 1960s and 1970s the then Social-Democratic government decided that art had to be available to everyone, not just displayed in galleries and therefore commissioned a number of projects for the Tunnelbana, transforming it in what is now called 'the longest art museum in the world'. Get a day-pass and take time to explore the Tunnelbana network - which is also a sensible option in case of bad weather.

What to look for

There are several stations worth mentioning, but I'd note in particular T-Centralen, where in the 1970s the artist Per Olof Ultvedt honoured the workers who built the station by painting their silhouettes (and his own) on the walls and ceilings. At Solna Centrum, Anders Åberg and Karl-Olav Bjork painted a fiery orange/red, hellish landscape above a Scandinavian pine forest, running for almost 1km along the walls, a statement again deforestation that was taking place in Sweden in the 1970s. 

Östermalmstorg features stark charcoal-coloured drawings showing key female figures from history: it is the work of feminist and peace advocate artist Siri Derkent in the early 1960s. Don't be surprised by the cold and haunting atmosphere of this place; the artist wanted to highlight that this station was designed to double as a shelter in case of nuclear attack. At Rådhuset, the artist Sigvard Olsson created a pink underground grotto, complete with various imaginary archeological findings, including a mock chimney stack base.

VIENNA

Why it's so special

Vienna Stadtbahn was built at a time of Austro-Hungarian imperial opulence and splendour, between 1894 and 1901. Although several lines were originally planned, only part of the network was eventually built and in the 1980s the Stadtbahn was incorporated into the city's U-Bahn system - it now constitutes lines U4 and U6 of the system. The style of some of the stations built at the turn of the 20th century reflects the Jugendstil/Art-Nouveau architecture, which in Austria found its expression in the Vienna Secession manifesto, a movement of artists who objected to the prevailing conservatism of the Vienna cultural establishment with its traditional orientation toward Historicism.

What to look for

he two above-ground buildings part of the (former) Karlsplatz Station are some of the finest examples of this style and were designed by Otto Wagner and Joseph Maria Olbrich, both members of the above mentioned Secession movement (the latter was in fact a founding member of it). These stations, with their distinctive steel framework and white marble slabs became the most modern, innovative, revolutionary (and thus controversial) buildings in Vienna at the time. Believe it or not, they were both scheduled for demolition in the 1980s, but thankfully the resulting public outcry managed to save them and today one of them houses a small museum and the other a cosy café. Another beautiful Art-Nouveau station is Kettenbrückengasse - also designed by Secessionist architect Otto Wagner.

ATHENS

Why it's so special

Compared to other European cities Athens metro system is fairly new as the bulk of the network was built from 1991 onward, though Line 1 is actually an old rail link between the city the Piraeus port that opened in 1869. However the tunneling of the other two lines under such an ancient city led to the discovery of over 50,000 artifacts, making it the biggest ever archaeological excavation ever made in the Greek capital. Many of these art treasures are now displayed in the stations, which means that metro travellers can almost journey back in time in time, rather than just from place to place.

What to look for

Syntagma Metro Station is where many of the artifacts discovered during the tunneling have been put on display and it is not unrealistic to say that this is now a huge, if slightly unusual, museum of Greek and Roman local antiquities. Here metro passengers can view Roman baths, an ancient aqueduct, marble tombstones, and even a mosaic from the fifth century AD. Archaeologists have also included a very educational geological cross-section – each layer of earth is testimony to a different period reaching back to prehistoric times, starting with Byzantine times, moving down through Roman, ancient Greek, and finally prehistoric. Indeed, a travel back to ancient times.

BERLIN

Why it's so special

As in other cities, Berlin started developing its metro (U-Bahn) system at the turn of the 20th century and also in the German capital we found one man behind most of the architectural design of the stations. Swedish architect Alfred Grenander worked on the U-Bahn stations design from 1902 until 1930, including the viaducts between Nollendorfplatz and Kreuzberg, which proved highly controversial at the time. Sadly he was almost forgotten after his death in 1931, but his designs are strikingly modern and still welcome thousands of Berliners and visitors alike today.

What to look for

Grenander's style evolved over the course of his work on the U-Bahn. Wittenbergplatz station, which opened in 1913 and was partially rebuilt after being damaged in WWII is arguably his masterpiece, a stunning example of Art-Nouveau. Toward the late 1920s his style became more modern and functional and we can see this at Hermannplatz (1926) and Alexanderplatz (1930 - his last work): here we find coloured glazed tiles, riveted steel columns or grand pillars covered by tiles and exposed beams.

Apart from Grenander's style, Berlin's U-Bahn is a fantastic mixture of modern and old, which means that every station is different and a real pleasure to explore.

Let’s say that someone asked you to name the city where the Pope lives. You would, of course, say - Rome. And you would be correct. Except for sixty seven years, back in the 14th century when the pontiff - in fact seven of them, lived in the French-Provencal city of Avignon, beautifully set along the banks of the mighty Rhone river. There was even a time when two men claimed to be the rightful Pope at the same time - one in Rome and one in Avignon. Figure that. 

Sixty seven years may seem like a relatively short period of time - and yet they were enough to don Avignon with Europe’s largest and most important Gothic palace, which still dominates the city with its towers and bastions and is today a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Even after the Pope and his court moved back to Rome, the close association of the city with the papacy remained for many years; although geographically well set into France, Avignon politically was an enclave of the Holy See and governed by a legate of the Pope until the French Revolution, when it was annexed to the rest of France in 1791. 

The rich and sometimes dark history of this city, its beautiful old streets, the unmissable and  iconic ancient bridge - mentioned in the famous French 15th century song ‘Sur le Pont d’Avignon’, its precious and most delectable food & wines - we’re in France after all - are some of the reasons to visit and enjoy this stunning city.

A bit of History...

So we’ve mentioned that seven Popes lived here in Avignon and we’ll see shortly how it all came to be. However, Avignon’s history goes back a long time before that. Founded as a Greek trading post around six centuries BC, it became a Gaul village and then a Roman thriving city, when the first bridge spanning the river was built. Avignon’s position, perched on top of a rocky outpost overlooking the Rhone, made it a perfect strategic choice.
Unfortunately, after the collapse of the Roman Empire, the city suffered many incursions by barbarians first and Saracens later. That is why there is hardly anything left of this classical period, apart from the odd ruin here and there - and of course no sign of the Roman bridge either.
Avignon remained a very important city though, also because it was one of the few places where the Rhone could be crossed. A new wooden bridge was built in 1185, then another one took its place forty years later, when the previous was burnt during a siege - which is the pont we see today. 

But why did the Pope move to Avignon? Tales of Mystery, Feuds and Revenge

Though the Church of Rome may be founded on Christian principles like peace, charity and fraternity, the top religious hierarchies back in the middle ages were everything but pious. The levels of sheer corruption, greed for power, deadly family feuds and murderous personal disputes would rival any modern times TV drama, so it’s not surprising that the reason for the move originated from a power struggle and a bitter feud between Pope Boniface VIII and the King Philip IV of France at the very dawn of the 14th century. The former basically asserted that he - as the supreme representative of God on Earth, had powers above every monarch, while the latter rather regarded the Pope’s chronic meddling into his state affairs as an unwelcome and annoying interference. 

Once that the Pope realised that he wasn’t going to have it his way, he proceeded to excommunicate the King of France in 1303 and to put an interdict on the whole of that country. An angry and revengeful King Philip proceeded to instruct a mob-style squad to 'pay a visit' to the papal’s private residence in Anagni, near Rome. Abducted and physically beaten by the said mob, the Pope died a few days later.

At that point, things pretty much went the way of the French King; a flash conclave that lasted just one day was held and a new more France-friendly Pope - Benedict XI, was elected. He proceeded to immediately absolve King Phillip IV and his subjects of their actions against Pope Boniface VIII, though in the same breath he excommunicated the French King’s minister Guillaume de Nogaret for supposedly organising the heinous Anagni facts. A Pope had died and someone had to carry the blame, obviously… However and perhaps unsurprisingly, Benedict XI did not last in power much longer - he died eight months after his election and rumour is that his dinner was poisoned - the long hand of Monsieur de Nogaret looms here.

Unlike the previous time, it took more than a year to elect a new Pope, as the cardinals were split between those who backed France’s position (or perhaps feared its wrath, given the precedents) and those who did not. In the end, in November 1305, a French clergy - not a Cardinal, so he wasn’t even present at the conclave in Italy - called Raymond Bertrand, was elected Pope with the name of Clement V. It is rumoured that he was triple-bound to the will of Philip IV by a written agreement and whether this is true or not, he certainly had his to-do list pretty much set and organised by the King of France and his trusted minister Guillaume de Nogaret at the time of his election.

So the new Pope, after canceling all of Boniface VIII’s excommunications and pardoning those who assaulted the previous pontiff in his residence, decided that he was not going to move to Rome, as it would have been expected. He lived for a bit between Poitiers and Bordeaux, but then in 1309 he finally established his residency in Avignon, which became the official Papal Residence. To be fair, there was also another reason for not moving to Rome - again because of another violent feud between two papal families, the Orsini and the Colonna, which provided an additional excuse for being as far as possible from the Eternal City (and we also guess - avoid being murdered in the process).

Apart other heinous persecutions, including that of the Franciscan-poverty-preaching Dulcinians (if you have read Umberto Eco’s book or seen its movie adaptation ‘The Name of The Rose’ you may remember that some of the monks in the abbey are declared heretics and burnt at stake because they are found to be associated with Friar Dulcino), Clement V also had to follow the King of France in his persecution of the Knights Templars, with whom Philip IV had accrued a huge financial debt. In 1307, in order to find a way not to repay this enormous sum of money he owed them, the King conveniently accused the Templars of being heretics and sodomites and had them arrested and sent to death, with the duly approval of the pawn Pope officially confirmed at the Council Of Vienna in 1311. 

But were the Knights Templars really engaging in sodomy? Well, we’re talking about men who were part of a closed and often mysterious order, living in military quarters and it is said that the initiation rituals included kisses on various parts of the body, including the ‘base of the spine’, so it’s likely that gay sex was indeed more than a vague possibility - but how much of this is true is unknown as of course under torture the inquisitors could get anything they wanted ’confessed’. 

Legend says that Jacques de Molay, the last Templar to be burnt on March 13th, 1314 - opposite Paris’ Notre Dame, no less - cursed from his pyre both the Pope and the King of France to be dead within 40 days and a year respectively, something that duly happened. And to add to the mysterious coincidence, while Clement V was lying in state in a church after his death on April 20th, 1314, a lightning hit the spire and the resulting fire incinerated the building and with it the remains of the Pope.

The Papal Palace - a UNESCO World Heritage Site

When you marvel at the imposing castle-like building, with its towers and fortifications, you struggle to believe that although the Palace’s construction started in 1254 as the local bishop’s residence, the bulk of this huge complex of 11,000 square metres (118,400 square feet) was built in just about three decades, from 1334 to 1364. Adding to the wonder, it's worth pointing out that the Black Death epidemic of 1346-1353 occurred right during the construction and its impact was catastrophic - in that period alone, a third of all the population in Europe died of the plague. 

This huge construction is actually composed by two sections, the Old Palace, built under Pope Benedict XII (1334-1342) and the New Palace, built mostly under Pope Clement VI (1342-1352). These two Popes wanted their new residence to be something to rival the Vatican for splendour and swank, so no money was spared in the construction and decoration. In fact, and perhaps unsurprisingly, the project went so over budget that it crippled the papal finances to almost cause bankruptcy.

In addition to befit the Popes’ unconventional taste for luxury, the palace also had to be properly secure - these were uncertain times, as we’ve seen, when allegiances shifted one day for the next, so the rich interiors of the papal court were complemented by impregnable walls and towers. I mean… you never knew who to trust… Also - and you get to visit the actual vault in the guided tour of the Palace - it was where the gold and immense riches of the papacy, as well as those squirrelled by the Pope himself for personal use were kept. Therefore it was more than obvious that they had to be well guarded against possible thieves. 

The nicest thing about the tour of the Palace is that included in the admission price you get a tablet that not only tells you about the history of the Palace and the function of the various rooms you visit, but also offers you a virtual reality reconstruction of the ambients as you go through them. So you can really see what they looked like in those times, with the paintings and the furniture as and where they used to be. It’s quite incredible because you can really step back in time. 

Pope Gregory XI decided to move the papacy back to Rome in 1377, influenced by the Dominican mystic and activist Catherine of Siena, who begged the pontiff to return through various letters. However, huge political tensions arose between those cardinals who wanted to remain in Avignon and those wanting to move to Rome, resulted in the Papal Schism, so until 1403 there was a Pope residing in Rome and an anti-Pope based in Avignon, each elected by a set of faithful cardinals. However, once this was resolved and the Papal court moved back to Italy permanently, this huge building started to be progressively redundant and slowly fell into disrepair. To make matters worse, during the French Revolution the palace was sacked and so without the handy tablet you would never be able to conceive the richness and splendour of this site in its heydays. 

Le Pont d’Avignon

Or more appropriately called, Pont Saint-Bénézet… As mentioned, this is a very old bridge, started in 1234 and which originally had 22 arches and spanned over 900 metres, across the river island of Barthelasse. When first built it was the only bridge crossing the Rhone between Lyon and the Mediterranean Sea - a stretch of over 250 Km. It was also the only river crossing between Avignon, which as mentioned was an enclave controlled by the Pope, and France proper under the authority of the kings of France. As such, it was closely guarded on both sides of the river.

Today the bridge only has four arches of the 22 original ones remaining - the rest have collapsed due to many destructive floods from the 17th century onwards and were never repaired. As a result and until 1818 when a new more modern bridge was built, the only way to cross the river here was by boat. 

But why it is named after Saint Bénezét? Who was he? The story wants that Bénézet was an unskilled shepherd who during an eclipse had a vision in which Jesus himself ordered him to build a wooden bridge across the Rhone - a predecessor of the current partly standing stone bridge. Bénézet reputedly overcame many obstacles miraculously and singlehandedly - I mean, he was a shepherd after all, not a builder… (hence his sainthood and the fact that he’s actually down as the ‘saint patron of bridges’), plus the construction of the bridge was said to have caused some 18 miraculous ‘healings’, - the blind had their vision restored, the deaf could hear again, cripples could walk - and hunchbacks had their backs straightened. Well, that is the the story anyway…  

However, Bénézet’s wondrous wooden bridge wasn’t miraculous enough to survive the wrath of King Louis VIII of France, who had it destroyed in 1226 in his attempt to curb the rebellious citizens of Avignon. Still, the remains of its builder were buried on a small chapel on the 1234-rebuilt stone bridge and there they remained until the year 1670. At that point with the bridge being abandoned to its destiny and the concern that the chapel would be next to be falling into the river at the next flood (though it actually survived to this day), his remains were transferred to another nearby site. 

The bridge of course is also famous for the song “Sur le Pont d’Avignon”, whose origins date back to the 15th century. Now, the lyrics are about an old folk dance performed on the Pont d’Avignon, though actually it would have been more likely under it (sous le pont) as honestly being just 4 metres in width, the bridge is way too narrow to host a dance. In any case, it was in 1853 when Adolphe Adam composed the operetta "L'Auberge Pleine" for the Opéra-Comique in Paris, in which the melody and lyrics appear in their present form. 

Beautiful views, enchanting squares and precious museums

Once you crossed the Popes Palace and the Bénézet bridge from your list, there is still plenty to do - and all within a short walk, in this compact city. For instance, don’t miss a visit to the gardens of the Rocher des Domes, just on the side of the papal palace. Built in the 19th century on the very top of the cliff that overlooks the Rhone river, they offer some amazing views of the city from above, including the Bénézet bridge and spanning through the beautiful Provençal countryside. In the summer, they are the ideal place to rest and enjoy a drink on the cafe’s open terrace.

Just in front of the Popes Palace, is a beautiful large square, which offers amazing photo opportunities. Here you will find the Romanesque Notre Dame cathedral, built in the 12th century, topped with a more recent golden statue of the Virgin Mary (weighing 4.5 tonnes), and the Palais de la Monnaie, which was the local mint from 1619 until the French Revolution, when the city was incorporated into France (and it is closed and currently being turned into a hotel).

Finally, also on the same square, at its far side, you will find the Museum of the Petit Palace(to distinguish it from the main palace), built during the early period of the Avignon’s papacy and once the Bishops’ residence. Here, you will find a collection of almost 400 works, mostly by Italian early-Renaissance painters, including Botticelli.

Another lovely square, just adjacent to the Popes Palace, is the Place de l’Horloge, which is the heart of the city, with the Town Hall and some nice restaurants and cafes. In the summer it’s a lovely spot to just stop and relax in the shade of the plane trees and enjoy a coffee watching the world go by. Although the current square has a classic 19th century feel, this is a very ancient spot. The town’s market would have been held here in Medieval times and the Forum of Roman Avignon would have been also in this spot (cue the rest of ancient ruins nearby). From the square, heading towards the South is the Rue de la Republique, which is the main shopping thoroughfare, though do wander through the side streets to find more small enchanting shops and restaurants.

Eating and Drinking in Avignon

For being a relatively small city, Avignon has an incredible array of restaurants and fine food shops. The good thing about lots of places in France is that you sometimes just have to wander the side streets of any town or city to bump into stunning bakeries, patisseries, food outlets, bistros and cafes, often totally unpretentious and serving the most delicious food.

The whole of the Avignon region, with its warm summers and cool winters, often marked by the blustery Mistral northerly winds, is one of the most renowned for its strong wines. One of my favourites is Châteauneuf-de-Pape, which comes from the nearby village bearing the same name and is one of the best reds you can get in France, one that’s strictly linked to the Popes’ historical presence in Avignon because it was Clement V and his successors to effectively promote the production of this wine here, so that they could drink it themselves. 

Some other nice local wines to taste come from the village of Beaumes de Venise, which produces two types of wine, a quality Côtes du Rhône red and a very famous Muscat, which has such an ancient history that it is said that in 1248 St. Louis took supplies of the this wine with him on his 7th Crusade. These wines were also favourites of the Popes at the Avignon court, so during the 14th century their production increased and was further refined.

If you visit in late spring and early summer, you may have an opportunity to enjoy some delicious cherries. The region of Avignon, particularly the Monts de Venasque, to its North is famous for having the largest concentration of cherry trees in France and one protected by a specific geographical recognition.

A testimony of the great dedication and attention the locals put on fine food and wines is Les Halles d’Avignon, a vast market with 40 stalls where you can buy some delicious local produces, but also taste them on the spot, from oysters to local wines. The modern building, famous for its ‘green wall’ facade, is located in Place Pie, on the site of the original market, which started over a century ago. 

An intimate hotel with lots of character and a historical grand dame

As a tourism destination, Avignon offers no shortage of hotels, of all types and for every pocket. Bear in mind that if you travel by car, the city is pedestrian-friendly, so most of it is off limits to cars and it is almost impossible to park. In this case, best choosing a hotel offering car park facilities.

When I stayed in Dec 2022, I choose the small and intimate Hotel Le Magnan, which is just inside the city walls and a short walk from the Popes Palace. It has a lovely and intimate Provencal feel and its prices are very reasonable.

If your budget allows it, the Hotel La Mirande, right in the shadow of the Popes Palace is one of the most beautiful and luxurious five-star hotels in Provence. The current building dates back to the 17th century, but the history of this site started at the time of the Avignon papacy, when it served as an annex to the palace to receive dignitaries. The hotel’s fine restaurant has been awarded one Michelin star and they can also arrange cooking classes in the building’s original 19th century kitchens

For many years and still today, France's Côte d'Azur has been a playground and inspiration for many artists, who came here lured not just by its mild climate and beautiful landscapes, but also for a tolerant and free environment. Modigliani, Matisse, Picasso, Chagall, Renoir all lived here for a reason as well as philosophers and writers, often escaping much more conservative regimes reducing their artistic freedom.

Jean Cocteau (1889-1963) defined himself as a poet, but was much more than that. He was also a playwright, novelist, designer, filmmaker, visual artist and art critic. Living in an age in which homosexual people were routinely oppressed and depreciated, he never hid his sexuality and was partnered to a number of famous artists, including the actor Jean Marais. In fact he regularly challenged the status quo, in his writings but especially in his drawings and paintings. 

In an age of repression and even persecution of LGBT culture, Cocteau frequently included in his works homosexual undertones, homoerotic imagery and symbols and in 1947 a clandestine edition of Querelle de Brest by Jean Genet, featuring 29 very explicit drawings by Cocteau was released. His paintings and drawings are still today incredibly seductive and modern, breaking the mould of established art.

Life on the Côte d'Azur

From 1950 onwards, the artist spent long periods at the Villa Santo Sospir in Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, just outside Nice, guest of his friend Francine Weisweiller, who also welcomed other very famous guests, such as Pablo Picasso, Pierre Cardin, Alexander Calder, Charles Aznavour, Marlene Dietrich, Romy Schneider and Alain Delon. In return for the hospitality, Cocteau decorated almost every wall of the house and curiously sometimes he didn't even bother to move the furniture, drawing over and around the objects. As the villa is a residential house it is not usually open to the public, though at times it is possible to organise small groups. 

The Saint-Pierre Chapel in Villefranche-sur-Mer

Not far from Villa Santo Sospir, Cocteau dedicated himself in the restoration of a chapel. This small and old fishermen's church located near the harbour of Villefranche-sur-Mer was found dilapidated and used as storage for the nets in 1956 when Cocteau started to redecorate it. When the work was completed, the year after, the church was adorned with beautiful paintings, including a startling representation of the Apocalypse on the inside of the door and many popular religious and non-religious images, including many scenes from the life of Saint Peter, patron of fishermen. Cocteau also intervened on the façade of the chapel.

The Côte (d'Azur) is the greenhouse where the roots grow. - Paris is the shop where the flowers are sold.
Jean Cocteau

The resort of Menton, on the Côte d'Azur is the very last French outpost before the border with Italy. This is the part of the Riviera where the two countries meet, blending quite harmoniously, even if historically it didn't quite always go that way. Famous for its omnipresent citrus trees, its mild climate and surmounted by the mountain buttresses of the Maritime Alps, plunging into the Mediterranean, the coast here is particularly beautiful and attracted many illustrious visitors, among them the artist Jean Cocteau. who developed a special attachment with this town. 

Menton's Marriage Hall

In his much loved Menton, Cocteau became friend with the then mayor Francis Palmero, who persuaded him to decorate the Marriage Hall of the town. Recently restored, the beautiful fresco depicts a bride and a groom staged as in a theatre, framed by red hangings. The young woman is wearing a Mentonnaise hat and the earring of the Mediterranean fishermen. A blazing Mediterranean sun illuminates the couple, representing the liberation of the body, sensuality and fertility.

The Jean Cocteau Museum - Le Bastion

In 1957, while working on the decorations of the marriage hall in Menton, Jean Cocteau noticed an abandoned 17th century fort, near the town's port. Mayor Palmero, offered him to make it a museum of his works, which Cocteau reluctantly accepted but then in fact carefully monitored every detail of the construction, from the decoration of the embrasures on the first floor to that of the frontispiece, passing through the ground of the ground floor representing a lizard, all three made in pebbles' mosaics. Opening in 1966, Cocteau did not see his museum completed, however the initial collection included 102 works, supplemented over time by other donations and acquisitions.

Jean Cocteau / Séverin Wunderman Museum

Not far from the Bastion, along the seafront, the Jean Cocteau / Séverin Wunderman collection museum opened in November 2011. It incorporates 1000 works, many belonging to the American collector and Cocteau enthusiast Séverin Wunderman and it is divided into 7 parts. This museum operated in conjunction with the Bastion, until the autumn of 2018 when a violent storm damaged the building and some of the exhibits that were housed in the basement. At the time of writing, two years later, the museum is still closed and being repaired, with some pieces transferred to the nearby Bastion museum.

Travel Information

Nice, the capital of the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur's region has a very well connected international airport with flights to most European cities and beyond. From Nice it's quite easy to travel around, both by car or public transport, with a dense network of buses and trains. Menton is reachable by train from Nice in about 30 minutes. Otherwise take bus line no. 100 from Nice-Port for a scenic road journey that will take you through Monte Carlo to Menton in about one hour.