When to visit

Discover and enjoy...

• 

  Unmissable Barcelona

  If you travel to Barcelona for the first time, make sure you fit these iconic sights in your list of must-see

  • The Sagrada Familia, the (still unfinished) masterpiece of Antoni Gaudí
  • The historical Ramblas - Barcelona's favourite stroll
  • The beatutful sea front promenade from Barceloneta to Playa de la Mar Bella -  Barcelona's gay beach
  • The beautiful noucentrista buildings and fashion shops of swanky Passeig de Gracia
  • Montjuïc, Barcelona's green lung with its spectacular views over the city and the sea.
  • The Tibidabo, with the Sagrat Cor Church, the colourful amusement park and amazing views over the city.
  • Parc Guell, one of Gaudí's most ambitious creations
• 

  Discover Barcelona's 'Modernism'

  At the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th, amidst a time of huge social and economic changes, Barcelona embraces the Modernism, a artistic and architectural movement that in the Catalan capital sees the construction of many spectacular buildings, now a true symbol of Barcelona - the famous Sagrada Familia, of course, but also patrician homes like Casa Batllo, Casa Vicenc and La Pedrera (also by Gaudí) and all sorts of beautiful urban creations, from parks to lamps and even street pavings with their stunning natural themes. 

• 

  Wander through Barcelona's ancient heart

  Barcelona's historical heart is to be found in the Gothic and Born districts. This is where the original Roman city was located and you can still see the odd classical column peeking here and there. Until the 1800, when the city was expanded, this wall-encirled neighbourhood and its port were where all the action happened. Today this ancient part of the city is most known for the maze of small alleys, where you will find the beautiful Gothic churches, like Santa Maria del Pi and Santa Maria del Mar. But it's also a lively neighbourhood, with a plethora of bars, restaurants, artisan shops and the famous Boquería Market, where you will find (and taste) the most spectacular foods.

• 

  Enjoy Barcelona's beaches

  Many visitors are unaware that Barcelona didn't have a proper and usable beach until the late 1980s. It was only then, with the grand reform of the city ahead of the 1992 Olympics, that the city was finally gifted with a long sandy beach, replacing polluting industries and shanti towns all the way from the port to the northern border with the city of Badalona. With the beach came one of the most well planned promenade where locals and tourists can walk and enjoy lovely views. The beach of Mar Bella, which also has a clothing optional section, is where all the gorgeous boys go to enjoy the summer sun and have a drink and a few tapas at the famous BeGay kiosk. 

• 

  Explore Collserola, Barcelona's green lung

  It's true that Barcelona doesn't have big parks in the city centre, but then on its fringes it has one of the largest urban parklands in the world. The Sierra de Collserola is a protected area 8 times larger than the Bois de Boulogne in Paris, and 22 times larger than Central Park in New York. This mountain range offers beautiful forests, natural springs and a number of spectacular walks along which you can enjoy some of the best views of the city from above. You will feel like being in pristine nature, when you're actually only minutes from the hustle and bustle of the city centre.

• 

  Visit Sitges, one of the world's leading LGBT+ destinations

  For decades, Sitges has been one of the most popular LGBT+ destinations in the Mediterranean. Its whitewashed old town, punctuated by great resturants, vivacious bars and some of the finest gay friendly beaches in Catalonia are an irrestistible mix. At just 45 minutes by train from Barcelona, Sitges also offer an incredible list of events worth attending, from the world famous Carnival to its Pride, from its globally known Bear Week to the many sparkling local fiestas and the International Film Festival.

• 

  Attend a concert at the Palace of Catalan Music

  The marvellous Palace of Catalan Music was designed in the Catalan Modernist style by the architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner and was built between 1905 and 1908. Located in the heart of the old city, its interiors are simply sparkling with natural themes and bright colours. It's an amazing experience to attend one of the many concerts in such a beautiful surrounding. The performances range from symphonic and chamber music to jazz and Catalan folk.

  Find out more

Gallery

Planes, trains and automobiles...

Useful links

• TMB, Barcelona's Transport Operator

• Rodalies - Catalan Railways

• AeroBus - Airport Link

• El Prat - Josep Tarradellas Airport

The Scene

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  Plaza Catalunya

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  Sagrada Familia

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  Casa Batlló

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  Mar Bella beach

  Gay friendly and clothing optional

Related stories

Most large mediterranean cities are not particularly famous for their beaches. Often they have large and busy harbours that partly close the natural flow of these cities towards the sea. With the harbours often come the factories, the passengers and goods wharves, the storage facilities, so in the end in many cases the sea remains perhaps visible, but locked away almost unreachable (and unusable) behind this artificial curtain.

Barcelona did not escape this destiny - and yet it managed to reverse it. Up to the late1960s, the locals did not have a single beach worth of this name within the city limits. The whole shoreline along the city was occupied by the harbour and then, to the north, by an interminable row of smokey factories, all the way to the city's border with neighbouring Badalona, where the river Besós discharged its rather dirty waters in the sea. To compact the problem, a large stretch of the city coastline was occupied by several shanti towns, like the infamous Somorrostro, where thousands of people lived in misery and precarious dwellings. 

Although the Sorromostro was finally demolished in 1966, the final redevelopment of the coastal area of the city did not occur until the mid-1980s, when the city prepared itself for the 1992's Olympics. By then, the long stretch of smokey factories had been relocated elsewhere (leaving room for the trendy loft-conversions and warehouse media studios of Poblenou), the cumbersome coastal rail line that separated the city from the sea was closed and the river Besós was cleaned up, with its shores turned into a nature reserve. Sand was brought in to enhance and widen the newly designed coastline, a new attractive palm-lined promenade and even a new leisure port was created. Finally Barcelona had a proper beach - for the first time.

Of course many visitors don't actually come to Barcelona for its beaches, but rather for its culture, its monuments and its scene. And yet one of the main features of this stunning city is that it has a number of nice beaches - in fact a few of them - to cool down and enjoy during the summer months.

I have listed below a few gay-friendly beach options for Barcelona visitors and locals. Some are proper city beaches, ideal for those who just want to spend a few hours in the sun. Others are away from the city and further along the coast, so they may be more recommended for a day-trip or even a summer weekend escapade. 

The City Beaches

Of all the city beaches, La Barceloneta is probably the most easily reachable, just a stroll from the Gotico and El Born. Because of that it can also be quite busy, especially at the weekend. If you don't mind the crowds and the constant flow of beach sellers (mostly illegal), then this is a great choice. I personally love coming here in the late afternoon to chill and have a drink and a couple of tapas at one of the bars or chiringuitos along the promenade while people watching.

About three kilometres north of the Barceloneta (30 minutes walk along the seafront promenade or about 10 from Poblenou's L5 metro station) the Playa de la Mar Bella is probably the most known gay beach in town, complete with a funky chiringuito playing great music and often throwing a sunset party or two. Part of the beach is clothing-optional, for those who like sunbathing in the nude. Behind the main nudist section is a small mound which I believe was built to prevent a full view of the naked beach goers from the promenade. However (gay) boys being (gay) boys, soon the mound and its wild shrubs became a haven for other 'leisure activities'.

Just past the city limits, across the river Besos, just before reaching the neighbouring city of Badalona, is the Playa de La Mora. Everyone knows it as 'Playa Chernobyl' because of the old power station's enormous three chimneys rising just behind the beach, which together with the graffiti give the place an urban post-industrial feel. To get to 'Chernobyl Beach' the easiest way is to take one of the frequent Rodalies (suburban) train of the R1 line from either Plaza Cataluña or Sants and alight at Sant Adriá de Besós from where it's a quick 5-10 minutes walk. Also this beach is clothing-optional and there is some (discreet) cruising going on - there is more 'action' in the shrubs along the river Besós.

South of the City

One of Barcelona's best kept secret is the long stretch of sandy beach that runs along the airport area. If you don't mind the sound of departing and landing aircraft, that is. Perhaps the reason is that it's not the easiest place to reach on public transport. The two adjacent beaches of Les Filipines y Remolar are however very popular with the locals and they are so long and wide that they never feel crowded.

To get there: By car: park at the Filipines car park, off the C31 highway and then walk along the beach towards the airport. By bike or moped: apart from the above, there is an option to park a bit further north and then walk through the nature reserve directly to the Remolar Beach. By public transport: alight at the Airport's T1 and walk about 40 minutes through the nature reserve.

The beautiful town of Sitges offer three famous gay beaches. The first is the Playa de la Bassa Rodona - often known as 'Picnic Beach' from the name of the homonymous bar & restaurant, located at the end of the Avenida Sofia and in front of the Calipolis Hotel. It's the beach to choose to 'see and be seen'. On the northern side of Sitges is the also uber-famous Balmins Beach: as you come down the main access the area to the left is more 'family oriented', whilst the gays tend to prefer the right hand side. This beach and its lovely chiringuito are a landmark for the Bears community (and of course their many admirers). Whilst the previous two beaches are easy to reach from the rail station, the third beach is more difficult to reach. However the Playa del Hombre Muerto (or Playa del Muerto) is a small but amazing hidden cove with even some historical significance as it is considered to be the oldest nudist beach in Spain (since the 1930s) and with a chiringuito that has been there since 1970. If you have a car - or getting a taxi from the station, go till the very end of the Urbanización Miralpeix (follow the signs for the Dolce Sitges Hotel) and then was about 15 minutes through the pine woods.

To get there: By car: about 40 minutes on the C31 highway. By train: Rodalies R2 South, about 50 minutes from Sants.

An alternative to the hustle and bustle of Sitges' beaches is the nearby stretch of fine sand between Cubelles and Vilanova called Playa Llarga. This unassuming and very off-the-beaten-track wide beach rarely gets busy but the fine and light-coloured sand is quite inviting. The gay section of the beach is towards the Vilanova end, backed by a small bushy area across the railway. Note that there are no services so you need to take food/water.

To get there: By train: best option is to alight at Cubelles (Rodalies R2 towards Sant Vicenç de Calders, 55 minutes from Barcelona Sants or 10 minutes from Sitges) and then walk back north along the seafront and the railway towards Vilanova. By car: C31 till Cubelles and just before the town follow the signs for the Camping Platja Vilanova.

North of the City

About 40Km north of Barcelona, between the two seaside villages of Canet and Sant Pol de Mar, along the N-II highway, the Playa de la Murtra offers another lovely gay-friendly hotspot not far from the city. The sand here is a bit grainy and dark brown-coloured so it offers quite a lovely contrast with the dark blue of the sea. The beach itself, which is clothing-optional, is not quite wide - but it is rarely overcrowded. There are no facilities, so you will need to bring water and any food you may want while here.There are also other gay-friendly beaches around the pretty village of Sant Pol, for instance the stretch of Playa del Morer towards Cala Grossa, just 15-20 minutes walking along the beach from the end of the sea promenade at Sant Pol.

To get there: By car: there is a small car park on the north side of the N-11 road, with a nearby underpass that leads to the beach: bear in mind that in the summer the parking is in short supply, especially at weekends. By train, the best option to get to Playa de la Murtra is to alight at Canet de Mar (Rodalies R1 line - 55 minutes from Plaza Catalunya) ad then walk for about 20 minutes along the coast North, towards Sant Pol.

The Costa Brava is a stunning stretch of coast that stretches from Blanes to the French border. Famous for its beautiful rocky appearance and secluded coves, it is a favourite for anyone who enjoys crystalline waters. The Playa de la Boadella (or simply Sa Boadella) is situated very close to the resort town of Lloret de Mar (70 Km from Barcelona). Awarded a 'Blue Flag', this clothing-optional beach is reached via a comfortable path and there are various facilities, including a chiringuito.

To get there: By car/bike from Lloret de Mar drive towards the residencial area of the Santa Clotilde Gardens and then park around there: the path to the beach is clearly marked. On public transport from Lloret bus L011 to Santa Clotilde Gardens. 

Further afield

This naturist beach, more commonly known as Waikiki Beach and located not far from the city of Tarragona - 80 Km from Barcelona, is only reachable by car, however it is well worth the trip if you fancy a dip in a relatively isolated location. To get to this beach you will need to either leave the vehicle at the northern end of Tarragona's Playa Larga or at Tamarit's Playa de la Mora on the Barcelona side, then walk through a few hundred meters along the coastal the paths above the cliffs into the mediterranean forest. If coming from the north there is a first cove called Roca Plana and the second is the Waikiki Beach. As the beach is quite difficult to reach, there are no facilities, so remember to bring water and any food you may want. Especially during the summer months the beach can be quite straight and family-oriented.

The stunning Playa del Torn in the list because it's quite a long way from Barcelona - a whole 120 Km to be precise. But it is in my opinion the best gay beach of the lot and it's well worth travelling the distance: it can be a (long) day-trip, in fact even better - a weekend escapade from the city. Over 2 Km long and situated about 3 Km south of the town of L'Hospitalet de l'Infant (travelling by train it's a 1h30m-1h40m journey from Barcelona Sants on the regional express towards Tortosa), this iconic (almost 100%) naturist beach has the advantage of being located in a stretch of coastline that luckily avoided the over-development that's so common around Barcelona. The long and wide sandy stretch is backed by a pines-covered mountain range and the sea water is pristine. Half way along the beach is the lifesavers station and just uphill, between the pine trees - is the highly ranked Chiringuito del Pep, where you can have a lovely meal or a drink overlooking the sand. From this point towards the southern end of the beach is where most gay guys prefer to be. Perhaps quite unsurprisingly the forest behind this stretch of the beach is also quite actively frequented.

Just above the Playa del Torn is one of Europe's best known naturist campings in Spain, El Templo del Sol. It offers spaces for tents, caravan parking lots and also self-contained bungalows, so it's a great choice if you wish to spend a few days in this idyllic location and make the most of this stunning beach. 

Lloret de Mar, in the South of the Costa Brava, has had for many years a dubious reputation: that of a party town where young college kids came to party, lured by the many bars and clubs on offer. To be fair, reputation in the travel industry is pretty much everything and it can be good or bad, but ion any case it is something that it’s often quite hard to shake away and that is the case for Lloret. This seaside resort is for many synonymous with drunken teenagers, balconing and casual street vomiting.

The reality is that the town is doing an awful lot to change this image. It is not easy, but the council and the local tourism office have taken some really important steps to change the formula and attract more salubrious customers, including the LGBT+ segment. However, it is a bit like turning round a transatlantic ship - it takes a long time. In this case, converting budget hotels to more quality establishments, adding more cultural offerings and ‘cleaning up’ its streets.

Today, Lloret gives the image of a seaside resort in rapid transformation, with cheap souvenir shops next to fashion boutiques and booze hotels next to more upmarket hotels. Although it hasn’t got the charm of Cadaques (but nor its prices), it is actually a pretty town, if you know where to look. And, also quite importantly, it is the only town in the Costa Brava with a cluster of LGBT+ establishments, which don’t just cater for the tourists, but are a reference for a very numerous and active local community, made by both local and expats.

A Colourful History 
As many other seaside towns in Mediterranean Spain, Lloret originally was a small fishing village and still in the 1950s you would have seen fishermen arriving with their boats on the beach and repairing their fishing nets. Also, like many other villages in Catalonia, the hardship of this basic lifestyle forced plenty of people to emigrate to Cuba and other Caribbean islands in search of a better life, especially in the 19th century. Many of them, described in this part of the world as ´los indianos´ eventually came back  to Catalonia with immense riches and built extravagant homes and other public buildings, which adorns Lloret to this day.

It was in the 1960s that the town was totally changed by mass tourism and perhaps rather sadly many old and probably charming buildings were bulldozed to make space for new non descriptive and often ugly hotels and apartments. It sounded like ‘progress’ back then… thankfully today we are a bit more careful with the environment, though of course we can’t reverse the horrors of those years.

Beautiful Beaches
Lloret is blessed with some stunning beaches. The main stretch of sand in front of town - Playa de Lloret, is almost 1.7 Km long and is perfect for those who like having all the services on hand. Just across from the rocky outcrop to the south of town is the Playa de Fenals, which is also quite popular, but it’s more sheltered, so a better choice on windy days.
Another stunning and secluded beach is the Playa de Canyelles, accessible from the road linking Lloret to Tossa de Mar. It’s a bit more tricky to reach, but it’s absolutely stunning and worth the trek. The water is crystal clear and the beach is backed by a beautiful pine forest. 
The Playa de Sa Boadella is clothing optional and very popular with the local LGBT+ community. From here you can admire the beautiful pines of the Santa Clotilde Gardens. It is a fair walk from the centre of town, but not at all arduous. 
Finally, the Playa de Santa Cristina and the Playa de Treumal are the furthest away from town, towards Blanes but no less stunning, with their calm crystalline waters. 
The beaches are all linked by a beautiful and spectacular coastal path, over 9 Km long.

The Legacy of the Indians 
As mentioned, many who left Lloret for the Caribbeans found fame and money. One local Indian worth mentioning is Constantí Ribalaigua, who emigrated to Cuba as a teenager in the late 1890s. Now, his name may not sound familiar, but perhaps his creation will - he perfected the daiquiri in his bar El Floridita, which he purchased in 1918 after starting there as a simple cook in 1914. The story goes that Hemingway, who when in La Habana frequented the Floridita, suggested Ribalaigua a new version without sugar and double rum, which became a cocktail now known as the Hemingway daiquiri or the Papa Doble.

As far as we know, Ribalaigua did not return to Lloret and stayed in Cuba where he became one of the most famous mixologists to have ever existed in the history of cocktails. However, those Indians who returned, built some pretty extravagant homes in Lloret and they spared no money in signing the best architects and adding the most modern facilities (i.e. private toilets and running water, which of course no one had in Lloret back then). One such house that you can visit is Can Font, which dates to 1877 and is today a museum. Nicolas Font, the original owner, lived between Cuba, Paris and Lloret and invested part of his immense fortune in improving his native town.

That’s because apart from building lovely homes for themselves, those who returned to Lloret felt the need to embellish the town, restore its heritage and to build public facilities. For instance they sponsored the creation of the lovely palm lined promenade. At the end of the promenade is a the beautiful Town Hall, which was inaugurated in 1872.

Out and About in Lloret
With its shiny Modernista tiled roof and fancy turrets, financed in 1916 by Narcis Gelats - yet another Lloreten who emigrated to the US and then Cuba, becoming a wealthy banker there, the Church of Sant Romá fully deserves a stop. The colourful tiles may attract the eye, but the middle part of this church, built in Catalan Gothic, is much older and dates back to 1509.

A perfect plan to enjoy the sea breeze on a warm day is to visit the Santa Clotilde Gardens, beautifully perched on the top of the cliffs plunging into the sea. The views here are spectacular, but so are the gardens. They were built in 1919 by architect Nicolau Rubió, commissioned by the Marques of Roviralta, who purchased this estate that previously was a vineyard, in the Renaissance style of Villa d’Este in Tivoli, near Rome.

To understand more about Lloret’s past and its connection with the sea, the Museum of the Sea (Museo del Mar) offers a beautiful collection of models of ships that once sailed from here, first to trade and catch fish, then onwards to the Americas. 

It may be bizarre to visit a cemetery, but the Modernist Cemetery of Lloret is considered one of the most beautiful in Europe for its architecture. It was built at the end of the 19th century and again, like everything in Lloret, it is linked to the wealthy expats who not only built their extravagant residences in town, but also their final resting chapels in the same grand fashion and reflecting the status of the family.

LGBTQI+ Lloret
For many years Lloret has been a reference for LGBTQI+ nightlife. In fact it is the only town in the whole province of Girona to have a stable queer scene, catering for tourists, but also for the local resident LGBTQI+ community. In the past few years the local authorities have started to promote the town as a LGBTQI+ destination and one of the recent outcomes of this has been the first Lloret/Costa Brava Pride, celebrated in 2022. The 2023 edition is provisionally scheduled for 7-8 July.

The two main bars in Lloret are David Bar (c/Migdia 52) and Areny 18 (c/Areny 18). They are at a stone’s throw from each other and usually the evening starts at the latter and continues at the former. 

I am sure that at least once we have all found ourselves in the centre of a major city, in the middle of the summer, the tarmac melting under our feet and the searing heat radiating from the buildings wondering why the hell we didn't choose a better time to visit... And indeed summer is not really the best time to visit cities, but thankfully many cities boasts blissful oases where visitors and locals alike can swim and relax - and why not, socialise! Here's our pick of the best.

Rome – Capocotta 

Visiting the Forum and the Colosseum is a must when in Rome, but in the height of the summer you could roast a steak on those ancient rocks, so what to do to get some respite? The good news is that the Eternal City is close to the sea and to a great gay beach – the bad news is that it's not so easy to get there. 

But let's start with the good news: Capocotta Beach, affectionately named 'il buco' because in the early 1970s the first users of this long stretch of coast could only get there via a hole (buco) in the perimeter fence, is to the south of the coastal town of Ostia Lido. In 2000 it was officially recognised as the first nudist beach in Italy and is a wide stretch of sand bordered by dune formations, covered by some shrubs. In parts the vegetation is thick enough to provide shelter (and opportunities for cruising, of course). Being quite a distance from urban areas, the sea is quite clean and in fact there is a marine reserve just about 5 kilometres offshore. There are some seasonal kiosks providing refreshments and also facilities like sunbeds, but we recommend to bring some food and drinks as at the time of writing some of these kiosks are under threat of demolition by the authorities. 

The gay beach is accessed via the 8th Cancello (Gate), which is also the furthest one. Recently the beach has become so popular that there are now unofficial areas for different 'gay tribes' – so you will encounter the bears in one section, the muscle boys in another, and so on and so forth. You can of course sit wherever you like! Just choose your fancy… Now the bad news – Capocotta beach is not so easy to get to. You will need to take the train to Ostia from the Ostiense Station (connecting with the B line of the metro), alight at Lido Centro and then take the bus (line 061) to the 8th Cancello. If you have a car of course it is a lot easier: you can park along the main road.

London - The ponds at Hampstead Heath

London doesn't have a reputation for getting scalding hot in the summer, but when it does it's pretty much unbearable. The Thames' greeny-grey hue does not look like an inviting swim and Brighton is a pretty long hike – so where to go for a refreshing swim?

Hampstead Heath is famous as a cruising ground, but the Men's Pond is nowhere near the cruising area – it's actually right on the other side of the vast parkland. There are actually several ponds, of which three are for swimming but the men's pond is the second from the South. 

The water in the ponds is crystal clear as it is fed from natural springs underneath the park (in fact the ones from which the historical and now hidden River Fleet originates), but for this very reason it is also pretty chilly, even on the most searing hot day. You are able to swim here every day, even in winter, though we wouldn't recommend it unless you're a penguin. There is a charge to enter the pond area, between £2.10 and £3.50 depending on the time/season. Or you can get a day-ticket for less than £7. 

Around the swim area are some pleasant lawns (these are outside the swim area so they are free to access) and on a warm day it feels like the whole of gay London comes here to picnic. To get to Hampstead Men's Pond the nearest station is Gospel Oak on the Overground – from there is about 400 mts walk. Or alternatively the nearest underground station is Tufnell Park, on the Northern Line and then it's about 600-700 mts walk from there.

Madrid - Lago

The Spanish capital often stays in the high 30s or low 40s (that's over 100F for our US readers) for most of the summer months. Positively roasting – not even a gallon of iced sangria would be enough to refresh (and we wouldn't recommend that anyway!). 

But in these positively scalding temps it's good to know that even in Madrid there are opportunities for socialising and having fun by the water. And only a few minutes from the city centre. The Piscina de Lago (or more correctly Centro Deportivo Municipal Casa de Campo) comprises several pools, including one that is 50 square metres. The pools are surrounded by nice lawns to sunbathe and of course socialise with the neighbours. There is obviously a mixed crowd but there is a 'gay enclave' at the top of the complex – it won't take long to find it: just follow the hot boys… 

In the summer the pools are really busy, especially at weekends so if you want to avoid the queue and more importantly find a spot to lay your towel try to arrive early, i.e. before lunchtime. The pool becomes astonishingly (and probably very predictably) busy on the week of Madrid Pride in early July – but it's a great place to hang out pre-parade/pre-party. 

The pool is open from late May till September and the entry charge is very reasonable (about €6). You can buy drinks (including alcohol), snacks and food inside the complex. There are of course changing facilities, showers, etc. To get to the Piscina de Lago is really easy – just get the metro line 10 towards Puerta del Sur and alight at Lago (it's only two stops from Plaza de Espaňa).

Barcelona - Platja de la Mar Bella

Being a coastal city with miles and miles of sandy shores, Barcelona offers a perfect blend of culture, entertainment and beach fun. The beach of Mar Bella was actually created during the redevelopment of the seafront in the early 1990s (before then it was a rather dismal industrial site) and since then it has become a favourite with the gay community, also because the beach has also a clothing-optional policy. Some people bare it all, some others don't – take your pick. 

The beach is not as wide as Barceloneta further south and it gets very busy at weekends, but it's a must over the summer months and the local chiringuito BeGay is a great spot to watch the world (and especially the hot men) go by, have a tasty snack as well as a drink or two. The chiringuito is open until late and there are often evening parties in the summer season – check theire website for details. 

There are also some activities i.e. kayaking, wind-surfing and skate boarding around. Despite not being in the very centre of Barcelona, the Mar Bella Beach is easily reachable by metro – linea 4 – and from the station of Poble Nou it's just about ten mins walk.

Berlin - Wannsee

Berlin summers can be hot as well. But fear not: the city is literally awash with opportunities for a refreshing swim and we are sure we won't surprise anyone in saying that the locals aren't shy and have no issues in skinny dipping.

It's a bit of a trek to reach the Strandbad Wannsee but it's possibly the closest you'd get to an ocean beach in landlocked Berlin – they even went to the length of shipping sand from the Baltic Sea to add to the marine feel. The area has been popular for over 100 years and the facilities have been recently renovated. The Wannsee itself is beautiful and back at the time of the Wall it was the only main lake within the West so it has some historical significance. The complex is actually huge – the sand stretches for over a kilometre and on busy days the Lido can accommodate up to 30,000 bathers, so it can get quite cosy on the sand! There is a nudist area and within it the gay section: as you enter the Lido turn right, walk past the FKK (nudist) section and then is the gay 'enclave'. Entry to the Strandbad is €8.

In terms of food & drinks, there are opportunities to buy some there, but it seems that most Berliners bring their own stuff and have a picnic. To reach the Strandbad you can take the S-Bahn lines S1 or S7 to Nikolassee (not Wannsee) and then it's about 10-15 mins walk from there.

Giorgio Petti

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Year Round Fun

• 

  Carnival

  February-March

• 

  Gay Pride

  May

• 

  Fetish Week

  October

  Held in Las Palmas, the Carnival de Gran Canaria is world famous - thousands of people gather every year to celebrate it.

• 

  Bear Carnival

  March

  Held in Las Palmas, the Carnival de Gran Canaria is world famous - thousands of people gather every year to celebrate it.

• 

  Freedom Festival

  September

  Held in Las Palmas, the Carnival de Gran Canaria is world famous - thousands of people gather every year to celebrate it.

• 

  Winter Pride

  November

  Held in Las Palmas, the Carnival de Gran Canaria is world famous - thousands of people gather every year to celebrate it.

• 

  Hotel Excelsior

  Luxury resort hotel situated on Lungomare

• 

  Grand Canal Venice

  View from Ponte dell'Accademia

• 

  Palazzo del Cinema

  Home to the Venice Film Festival

• 

  Grand Hotel Ausonia & Hungaria

  Liberty-style hotel built between 1913-1916

• 

  Venetian Sunset

  View of across from the Lido

The Eixample is the most emblematic district in Barcelona. Many visitors are familiar with its iconic Modernista buildings, such as the Sagrada Familia, they shop in its upmarket streets, dine in the amazing variety of restaurants or sleep in the many hotels located in the area. Moreover, LGBT visitors know the Eixample neighbourhood as it is where most of the gay scene is located today. 

It is actually a very large neighbourhood, home to almost 300,000 residents, which the locals divide in five very distinct areas.

• The Left Eixample (Esquerra de l'Eixample), further divided in Old and New (Antiga e Nova) 
• The Right Eixample (Dreta de l'Eixample)
• El Fort Pienç
• Sagrada Familia
• Sant Antoni

Home to the LGBT community

A fascinating history

Girona is often known as the gateway to the Costa Brava. During the summer months its small airport receives many scheduled and charter flights from across Europe, however the majority of the passengers flying here will never set foot in the town itself and instead proceed straight to the coast. But Girona is actually a gorgeous and picturesque town, well worth a visit in itself. Its cobbled streets steeped in history are perfect for a weekend away and the old buildings perched over the River Onyar will make you feel like you're in Florence. The history of Girona goes back to Roman times, when it was called Gerunda. But it is in medieval times that the city became a major centre, situated - as it is today - on the main road linking Barcelona to France. That position also gave the city a few headaches in its history, as it often became the northernmost bastion against the French invading troops. Girona for almost six centuries was also home to one of the biggest and most influential medieval Jewish communities in Europe, before their expulsion in 1492. Today the city is one of the wealthiest in Spain and a thriving university city, with a young and lively population, a passion for fine food & wine and a lovingly preserved heritage. At just 39 minutes by train from Barcelona, and just about 90 minutes flight from London, why not seeing for yourself?

From an LGBT point of view Girona does not have exclusively gay venues, yet it is a very accepting and young city with some pretty smart bars and amazing restaurants. LGBT people are welcome pretty much everywhere and will not feel awkward or rejected in any public space.  

What to see in Girona

The Cathedral and its Museum 

The Cathedral and its majestic baroque facade is one of the most recognisable symbols of the city, preceded by a steep and enormous stairway, adding to the imposing presence. Once you climb the 90 steps you will be rewarded by the widest Gothic-style vault in the world and many treasures. Don't miss the museum, with some amazing artefacts, dating back to ancient medieval times, and the cloister which dates back to 12th century and is the oldest part of the complex.

The Church of Sant Feliu 

The spire of Sant Feliu, another unmissable landmark of Girona's skyline, is blunted - a lightning strike destroyed its upper part. The tower was supposed to be joined by an identical twin, which was never completed. Another imposing stairway lead to a precious Gothic medieval church that dates back to the 14th century. From across the river the view is magnificent, especially at sunset with the sun beaming on the facade.

The medieval walls 

The imposing walls of the city that once protected Girona from its enemies, are today a stunning vantage point across its ancient centre. A walk along the top of the fortifications has now been restored: we recommend to start at the southern end, near the Jardì de la Infancy and to continue all the way to the Cathedral - the views enjoyed along the way are just breathtaking.

The houses over the River Onyar 

They may not be as renowned as Florence's, but Girona, just like the Tuscan capital, features some picturesque houses alongside the river and they have earned the town the definition of 'Catalan Florence'. Dating back hundreds of years, they reflect their bright colours in the water and provide a beautiful and romantic landscape.

Girona's medieval heart 

Girona's medieval heart is best enjoyed on foot. It's a pretty labyrinth of cobbled streets, ancient porticos, pretty arches and steep stairways. At night it is as picturesque and romantic as during the day. It is worth taking some time to get lost in the myriads of alleyways and silent courtyards. Stop for a meal in one of the gorgeous restaurants along the way or enjoy a drink under one of the porticos of the Plaça del Vi, like you might have done centuries ago, when this was the city's old wine market.

Learn about Girona's legends 

Girona is also famous for its legends. There are so many of them, and some are very old indeed, dating back to ancient times. Our favourite is linked to a small stone lioness mounted on a slender column in the square in front of the church of San Feliu. it is said that whoever kisses the ass of the stone lioness is sure to come back to Girona. It's worth a try...

The Rambla and its buzz

The Rambla de la Llibertat is a magnificent pedestrianised street along the river and was originally developed in the 13th century to hold the city's market, hence the low-ceilinged arcades and arches. Today it is one of Girona's main commercial thoroughfares and a favourite spot for the locals to meet and chat.

The Arab Baths 

Despite the name, this beautiful monument wasn't actually built by the Arabs; it's a Romanesque creation, dating to the 12th century, but the reason why they are called this way is because they were inspired by the spa structure popularised so much by the Muslims, who were at the time pretty much home in the south of Iberia. These are the best preserved public baths in Catalonia and were in use until the 16th century.

Travel Information

Girona is situated half-way between Barcelona and Perpignan (around 100 Km from either), so it makes an ideal destination for a day trip or weekend getaway from these cities. The AVE/TGV trains reach Girona from either cities in about 40 minutes. 

It is also a great city destination if holidaying along the Costa Brava: there are regular and frequent bus connections from most resorts to Girona.

Urban parks and gardens are an antidote to the city's noise, pollution and chaos. However some of the green spaces enclosed in our cities are more than that. They tell amazing stories and often help us understanding the history of the centres they sit in. Here are a few more or less known parks and gardens and the fascinating histories they hold within.

Rome – Orto Botanico / The Botanic Garden

The Italian capital is known for its chaotic and rather unruly traffic and in the summer for the often searing heat and humidity. Yet there is a place where peace and quiet are the norm, a green oasis in the very centre of the bustling metropolis, offering some beautiful panoramic views of the city and a welcome break from the summer sun. If it is forgivable for tourists not to be aware of Rome's Orto Botanico, it is rather amazing that many locals don't know about this urban garden either, tucked away as it is, wedged between the river and the slopes of the Gianicolo hill, a fifteen minutes walk from busy Trastevere.

There has been a garden on this site since the thirteenth century, when the Papal orchard used to be located on this spot. Later a proper botanical garden was established here by Pope Alessandro VI - a key figure of the infamous Borgia Family - in the sixteenth century and this makes the Orto one of the oldest botanical gardens in Europe. Successive pontiffs enlarged this space and brought a water supply from a nearby aqueduct, also to feed lakes, fountains and a number of decorative streams. When Rome eventually became the capital of the new Italian unified state, the park was further enlarged when the neighbouring Villa Corsini was annexed, in 1883. Today, the twelve hectares' garden features over 3,000 vegetal species. The view of the city from the upper reaches, which sees trees dating back over 300 years is just breath-taking and you'll be amazed that such space does not yet see more tourists.

Madrid – Parque del Buen Retiro

It is pretty much impossible not to notice the big green blob just south-east of central Madrid. But the history of this large park (350 acres) is quite impressive and deeply connected to the destiny of this country.

During the reign of Isabella I (1474–1504), the Jeronimos monastery was moved to this location and a small royal palace was built next to the church. When King Philip II moved the court to the new capital, Madrid in 1561, he ordered his architect Juan Bautista de Toledo to enlarge the Retiro and formal avenues of trees were laid. The expansion continued in the 1620s when Gaspar de Guzman, the Count-Duke de Olivares, who was King Philip IV's powerful protégé, gave the monarch several adjacent plots so that a magnificent royal house could be built. At the time this area was just outside the city, a cool and wooded location.Many buildings were added and in the 1630 the great lake (Estanque del Retiro) was inaugurated, which was sometimes used for mock naval battles. The Buen Retiro was described as The world art wonder of the time, possibly the last creation of Renaissance in Spain and a true symbol of Spanish power and grandeur.

The park fell into disrepair and then restored to its former splendour several times and the palace was almost totally destroyed by the Napoleonic troops in 1808, but in 1868 as a result of the Glorious Revolution (La Gloriosa) Isabella II was dethroned and the park became a public space, as it is today. A great green space where you can really experience the last 500 years of Spanish history.

London – Crystal Palace Park

London is a city rightly famous for the abundance of green spaces and urban parkland. But whilst almost everyone will visit the beautiful spaces like Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens, hardly any tourist venture beyond the centre to explore some pretty impressive and historical parks further afield. One of them is Crystal Palace Park, south of the city. The name is already pretty meaningful: situated on the top and southern slopes of one of the highest hills in the metropolitan area (Penge Hill), it used to be home to the magnificent Crystal Palace, which was an enormous cast iron and glass structure built by Sir Joseph Paxton for the Great Exhibition of 1851 and housing 14,000 exhibitors in a space almost a million square feet large – a true engineering feat. The Palace was originally built in Hyde Park but was moved on this site after the end of the exhibition. Sadly, if you're looking for this beautiful example of Victoriana you will find almost nothing as the structure was entirely destroyed by a massive fire on 30 November 1936. You can still see the stairs leading to the building and some enormous statues that once decorated the entrance but one can hardly imagine how magnificent this structure once was. The Victorians had also built two impressive rail stations to accommodate the flow of visitors and one of these still remains, though under-used – the other is long gone. It is said that this area also saw the first ever (and possibly last) experiment in a pneumatic passenger railway, though sadly nothing remains of it.

Sir Paxton's work is not the only interesting feature of this green area. When the Palace was relocated here in 1851, a series of stone dinosaurs were placed in the adjacent park, arranged in scenic settings recreating pre-historic environments. The history of these statues is pretty intriguing, for their sculptor Benjamin Waterhouse Hawkins, under the direction of Sir Richard Owen, created these works six years before the publication of Charles Darwin's 'On The Origin of Species'. Understandably, these dinosaurs' reconstructions, though somehow inaccurate in light of today's knowledge, created furore and outrage at the time, because they put the biblical concept of divine creation in doubt for the first time and in front of a bigger audience. Though these ideas were already circulating in the scientific world, it was the first time the public was effectively exposed to the revolutionary theory of evolution.

Victorian brilliance, engineering masterpieces and revolutionary concepts – that's more than worth the hike to the furthest reaches of south London.

Berlin - The Tiergarten

The first mention of the main parkland in the centre of Berlin dates back to 1527 when it was an area set aside by the king for the purpose of deer hunting. The limits of the park extended much further out than today, as this area was on the outskirts of the city of Berlin at that time. The urban expansion meant that the park progressively shrunk in size and in 1740 Frederick II - who wasn't so much into hunting pursuits - decided to transform the area into a pleasure garden (lustgarten). To this purpose he instructed architect Georg Wenseslaus von Knobeldoff to enrich the park with flower beds, tree-lined avenues and areas where Berliners could congregate and freely converse. A pheasant house was also built, which would then become the central nucleus of the Zoological Gardens in 1844. There were other modifications in following decades, especially the ones carried on by Peter Joseph Lenne to make the Tiergarten a 'Prussian park for the people', but the gardens remained under the possession of the monarchy until 1881 when Wilhelm I abdicated his rights to this parkland. 

One of the main alterations after this period was the addition (finalised in 1901) by Kaiser Wilhelm II of a Siegesallee, a 'Victory Parade', stretching 750 mt from Kemperplatz to the Konigplatz, which was the original site of the Siegessaule, the Victory Column. The Siegessaule itself is today a key landmark of the Tiergarten: designed by Henrik Strack to commemorate the Prussian victory in the Danish-Prussian war it was inaugurated in 1873, by which time Prussia had also defeated the Austrians in 1866 and the French in 1871, giving the statue a new purpose.

However the Siegessaule, as mentioned before, was moved from its original location at the end of the Victory Parade to a new site in the middle of the Tiergarten (where it still is today) during the Nazi period. The move was part of a general re-organisation of the park; Adolf Hitler wanted the Tiergarten to be one of the main highlights of the new monumental Nazi Capital and he therefore ordered the widening of Charlottenburger Chaussee, today known as the Strasse der 17 Juni, positioned the Siegessaule in a prominent site at the Grosser Stern and even altered its height by adding another 7.5 metres to the structure, to make it more imposing. This would have provided the perfect backdrop for Hitler's triumphal military parades. In a way this relocation saved the Siegessaule, because the original location of the structure was severely bombarded during the war so it is very likely that had it stayed there, not much of it would have survived.

Unfortunately after the war and the aerial bombardments, the park suffered some further damage in the immediate aftermath of the WWII conflict. The Tiergarten ended up being entirely in the West side of the partitioned city, but the shortage of coal meant that a large number of trees were felled to heat homes in the brutal Berlin winters. Thankfully starting in 1949 the park started to be reforested and saplings came from all over West Germany to help with the enormous task. Damaged statues were restored and the park became once again a favourite spot for Berliners. The Berlin Wall used to run along the northern and eastern edge of the Tiergarten. After the fall of the Berlin Wall the beautiful perspective of the Tiergarten through the Brandenburg Gate was finally restored.

Today the Tiergarten is an integral part of the city and a much loved green space all year round. In winter the small lakes freeze and the park turns into a snowy enchanted forest. During the long summer days the Tiergarten offers plenty of entertainment, including colourful restaurants & biergartens, such as the Cafe am Neuen See and the Teehaus in the English Gardens. There are also plenty of areas prefect for sunbathing and in many of them it is common to do that fully naked, especially in the area south of the Siegessaule, near the Lion's Bridge. 

The Tiergarten also features a monument to LGBT people persecuted and killed by the Nazi. It can be found just off the Ebertstrasse, on the south-eastern quarter of the park and opposite the Jewish Holocaust memorial. It was designed by artists Elmgreen and Dragset and completed in 2008. It consists of a cuboid with a window through which one can see a short film of two men kissing. 

San Francisco - The Golden Gate Park

In the 1860s the city of San Francisco had plenty of golden aspirations. The gold rush and consequent expansion of the urban area had created the need for a park, on the style that was already being developed in New York for Central Park. A decision was made to locate this new green space to the west of the existing city limits, in a area that at that time was an expanse of sand and not much else. Some argue that this decision was driven also by developers who were keen in starting a construction boom in that area. What we know for sure is that the Golden Gate Park in the form we see it today is very much a creation of two men; William Hammond Hall who surveyed the land and became the park's first commissioner and his assistant John Hays McLaren, a Scotsman who replaced Hall as commissioner for 53 years from 1890. 

Turning an expanse of dry, shifting sand into a park was by no means easy. Lots of water was needed and this initially came through surface pipelines at a costly price. One of the works carried on during McLaren's tenure was the erection of the two windmills to the western end of the park in 1903 and 1908. These windmills had the practical purpose of intercepting a natural source of water underground and directing it to Strawberry Hill and the surrounding Stow Lake, for use in the park. Today the area is one of the quietest and most remote of the Golden Gate Park and is a well known cruising spot. 

The Golden Gate Park houses some remarkable museums, in particular the stunning California Academy of Science, which is a must for any visitor to the city. The original museum was built from 1916 but was damaged in the 1989 earthquake: the present building encompasses 37,000 square meters and includes exhibits of natural history, aquatic life, astronomy, gems and minerals, and earthquakes.

The Conservatory of Flowers is another landmark of the park. The Victorian-style structure dates back to 1879 and is built out of wood and glass. It houses 1,700 species of plants, mostly tropical and aquatic. There is also a botanic garden in the park, which due to the local climate allows the growth of wide range of species, some no longer existing in their natural habitat.

Another beautiful and quiet area can be found around the National HIV/AIDS memorial. The city of San Francisco was severely hit by the epidemic in the 1980s and this peaceful spot allows any visitor to reflect on the immense tragedy and remember those who died as a result of the virus. Situated at 856 Stanyan Street, in the eastern section of the park, the construction of the memorial started in the early 90s and there are over 1,500 names of HIV/AIDS victims inscribed in the flagstone. 

There are other spots that are profoundly intertwined with the city's history. The panhandle section of the park (between Oak and Fell Streets) was the location of the 'Human Be-In', which was held here on 14 January 1967. This event that preceded and anticipated the famous 'Summer of Love' of the same year, which catapulted the counter-culture movement of Haight-Ashbury onto the world's attention. Attended by 30,000 people it included speeches by Allen Ginsberg and music from many famous bands, including The Grateful Dead and George Harrison. Nearby, the height to the east of the Conservatory of Flowers is still aptly called Hippie Hill and is a great spot for people-watching and absorb some of San Francisco's fantastic colourfulness.

Summer of 2020 will be remembered for the travel plans that didn't happen and the limitations imposed on free movements, which made many destinations simply out of reach.

However it will also be remembered as the summer in which many of us, me included, had a chance to travel more locally, perhaps to places we wouldn't have otherwise travelled to. Many of us, at the end of a long lockdown in our city flats, felt the need to reconnect with nature, to surround themselves with tranquility and peace. So at the beginning of July, my husband and I decided to take a holiday in the Aran Valley (Val d'Aran). 

Where is it?

The Val d'Arán, is the north-easternmost corner of Catalunya, right at the border with France. Geographically, this area is closer to France than to Spain, starting with the crystalline river that flows through the valley - none other than the mighty Garonne, which here is just a tumultuous mountain stream then flowing across the border through the Aquitaine region and its famous vineyards and ending in fascinating Bordeaux. The separate identity of the valley and its closeness to France is also reflected in the local culture: although everyone speaks Spanish and Catalan, the locals use the ancient Aranés language, which is a variation of the Gascon-Occitan language.

When to go there?

Established in the late 1960s the four combined ski areas of Baqueira-Beret now cover a length of 167 Km of slopes, the largest - and also the poshest ski resort in Spain. However, we travelled in summer and discovered an endless list of excursions (for all levels of fitness), high altitude hikes for the most ambitious and lots of local arts. 

How to get there?

Up to the late 1940s the only way to reach the valley from the southern side was to take the highly spectacular - but incredibly winding road that crosses the Bonaigua Pass, at 2070 metres on sea level. Due to its altitude, this route was impassable during most of the winter and so the valley was often only reachable from the French side. It was only in 1948 that a long (over 5 Km) tunnel finally opened after more than 20 years of construction, linking Vielha, the valley's main town in a straight line towards the south and Lleida, ending the winter isolation of the Val d'Aran. Both roads are quite spectacular for their views. There is no rail connection, however a regular bus service connects Barcelona to Vielha in about four hours. A car is obviously very convenient to reach the most remote corners of the valley. However there is a bus service connecting the various villages, from which you can enjoy many mountain excursion paths.

Where to stay?

There is quite a large choice of hotels and apartments and as they are focused onto skiers in winter, during the non-ski season they come available at a very reasonable price. You can choose a design city apartment in Vielha if you prefer to have more life on your doorstep. Or, like us, you can choose to stay in one of the smaller and very picturesque stone houses in a typical village, which are a lot quieter and offer some small convenience shops for your last-minute grocery needs as well as a handful of cafes and restaurants. Our choice was a charming and welcoming modern two bedroom apartment set in a converted typical period stone house in Salardú, a small village about 10 Km from Vielha. If you prefer more isolation, there are also some beautiful alpine-style dream stone and wood cottages of all sizes in more rural surroundings: there you can enjoy true peace and tranquility. Bear in mind that if you rent an apartment, the majority of the shops are in Vielha, where you will probably do most of your shopping. There are lots of apartments in the main ski resort of Baqueira, for instance - but no grocery shops were opened when we visited in the summer.

What to see?

We really loved visiting the small villages dotted in the valley (there are 33 of them!), with their typical houses made of local stone, slate and wood. Each village has its own church, often surrounded by lovely gardens and have picturesque bell towers. Many of these churches are very ancient as they date back to the Romanic Period - 11th to 13th century. The most beautiful are in Bossóst, Artiés and Tredós, and some are set in spectacular settings. Inside you'll often find some beautiful ancient frescos and elaborate stone carvings by local artists. 

There are literally hundreds of mountain excursions you can choose from, some are easier and shorter and some more difficult and can even involve overnight stays in a refugio (mountain shelters). As we're not expert hikers, we stuck to the more accessible ones, however always choose wisely and be prepared in advance for the level of activity you engage in. These were our favourites:

Montgarri

The minute village of Montgarri, set in a picture-postcard valley and crossed by a rumbling stream. There is a sanctuary dating back to 1117 and a couple of buildings still in use (including a restaurant/hotel) however most of the houses are in ruin as the village was all but abandoned in the 1960s due to the really hard conditions of living here during the winter (often reaching -15C degrees). To get here today is relatively easy as you can drive along the GR211 road all the way to the ski fields of Beret (where you will pass the source of the Garonne) and then walk from the ski station's car park through an easy path. The bell tower of the sanctuary comes in view suddenly in the green pristine river-crossed valley and it's a spectacle that seems proper of a fairy tale. 

Baciver Lakes

From the car park of Orri, which you will also find along the GR211 road, a path leads you to the cluster of alpine lakes of Baciver, at an altitude of over 2300 metres. You will first walk through some stunning pine forests crossed by rumbling streams and waterfalls, before getting to the high-altitude rocky plateau where the crystal-like lakes are found. It's a steep climb in parts but the views towards the valley and the snow-capped Aneto Peaks (the highest in the Pyrenees at 3400 metres) more than compensate the effort. When we visited in July there were still patches of snow here and there and the atmosphere incredibly still and peaceful. 

Circ de Colomers

The Aïguestortes National Park's most spectacular spot and the largest concentration of lakes in the Pyrenees is a relatively easy excursion from the end of the road that connects Tredos to its Banhs (see wellness section). The path crosses spectacular and untouched pine forests and flowered green mountain meadows. Along the route you will encounter rumbling waterfalls and crystalline streams, before you reach the beautiful alpine lakes. Snow-capped peaks in the distance complete the picture. Absolutely picture postcard. 

Saut deth Pish

Situated in the Varrados Valley, up from the village of Arrós, a handful of kilometres from the French border, this is probably the prettiest waterfall in the Val d'Aran and surely the largest. It's also an easy excursion as you can park the car almost at the waterfall itself and then walk around the valley to capture the sparkling fall from different points of view. This area also reminds us that before tourism and skiing the Val d'Aran main activity was iron, lead and zinc mining. In fact the road to this remote location was built to serve some of the mines that were around here. From the Saut death Pish a track leads to the Liat Lake Mine, at an altitude of 2400 metres, which was abandoned in the 1960s and was served by a cable car 13 Km long, used to transport the minerals down the valley, at Pontaut. 

Toran Valley

The Toran Valley, which starts at Canejan, the last town before the French border is one of the most remote and for this reason the villages along this route like Porcingles and Sant Joan are some of the most picturesque in the area. The views towards the Garonne Valley and the Aneto peaks from the various miradores along the route is quite exceptional. The road ends not far from the beautiful Honeria Mountain Refuge. Once this area was mainly inhabited by miners who worked up in the mountains. The route along the Toran valley was also very popular with smugglers, who could get in and out of France bypassing the main control post, just past Pontaut.

Note: Always check the weather forecast before setting off for an excursion and take extra care as we ourselves during our stay witnessed some very sudden changes. Summer storms in the Pyrenees can be sudden and violent. Clouds may roll in at short notice making the visibility poor.  

Wellness in the Val d'Aran

When the Romans arrived here, over 2,000 years ago, they found a number of thermal springs, which they took advantage of. The Termas Baronia, located in Les - about 15 minutes drive from Vielha, take advantage of a sulphuric spring rising at over 30 C and were visited by Roman general and politician Pompey. Today you can have all sort of beauty and spa treatments here. Another opportunity to enjoy the natural wealth of this area is at the Banhs d'Arties. Here you will find two modern open-air pools, opened between June and October, collecting the sulphurous water that rises here at 39 C. Entry is very cheap at €3.

For an incredible high-altitude experience you can stay in one of the 9 rooms of the Banhs de Tredós Hotel, which is located at almost 1,800 metres high, at the beginning of the Circ de Colomer hiking path and the highest thermal resort in Europe. In summer it's easily reachable by car, however in winter guests can only travel there by snowmobile, which adds to the charm and total isolation of this site. 

From a fishing village to a sprawling city with a skyline that rivals Hong Kong, perhaps one of the most enduring examples of how the package holiday business has changed not just Spain, but the whole of the Med. Benidorm has a particular reputation. Its fame is for being rather cheap and trashy; one of the main destinations for a certain type of British tourist, the typically unadventurous package holiday customer - with buffet meals and alcohol included, so carefully scripted in the successful UK TV series Benidorm a few years ago.

But on my recent visit to Benidorm I have successfully dropped some of the preconceptions and actually found a rather pleasant experience. Despite the negative publicity, the city is clean and has a well maintained seafront. The 'Old Town' may not be as stunning as some other Med locations, but it is pleasant to walk around. Overall I found that the town is really trying to shake its reputation and to launch its credentials as a very gay-friendly centre in Spain. 

Enjoy the beach!

Benidorm is arranged between two long stretches of sand, the Playa de Levante to the East and the Playa de Poniente to the West, with a rocky head in the middle – above which is the old town. There is no gay beach per se in Benidorm, though it seems that the area where most gay guys go for a dip is the stretch in front of the Plaza de Torrejó, at the old town end of the Playa de Levante. Bear in mind though that the beach gets shady in the late afternoon because of the cliffs on its side.

If looking for an option to take your kit off, then your best bet is the Raco Conil cove, which is a nudist gay/mixed beach. There is quite a bit of cruising as well. It's about 6 Km out of Benidorm towards Villajoyosa and you can get a taxi there for about 15-20 Euro, or a bus (board no 2 to La Cala in front of the Mar Blau hotel on Poniente Beach) and walk over the headland. There is a summer bar on the beach for liquid refreshments!

Hotels, hotels and more hotels

There are literally heaps of hotels in Benidorm, but if you want to be in a location that is convenient for the gay bars then the best location is to be in or close to the old town, as almost all the LGBT venues are clustered around a handful of streets there. On my trip I stayed at the 3* Bilbaino Hotel, right outside the old town on the Levante Beach. This hotel claims to be the very first hotel to open in Benidorm in 1926 and the place is literally full of captivating pictures showing the town in the old days, when there was just a handful of huts and tiny houses along the seafront. There is no pool, but the hotel is right in front of the (unofficial) gay beach - and who can beat a proper swim in the sea? Close by is also the budget 2* Queens Hotel, which is also popular for its busy bar (see below). This hotel is basic but has a great roof terrace with some impressing views.

So much food... and cheap too!

Many people think that food in Benidorm is pretty awful, all fish & chips and badly cooked full English breakfast. But that is not actually true. Yes, there are some places catering for those looking for an unadventurous holiday experience, but you never have to look too far to find good places to eat.

Punto De Sal - This beachfront restaurant (right in front of the unofficial  'gay beach') has a lovely outside terrace, which is a gorgeous spot to spend the evening. It's difficult to describe the food, which is Spanish/Mediterranean with some subtle Asian influences. Chef Tomás Arribas really lifts the bar – and still the prices are very reasonable.

TaloTako - There are heaps of dining options on the Calle de Santo Domingo – a.k.a. Tapas Alley. But if you fancy tapas with a twist, head for TaloTako which serves tapas but with a Mexican flavour. And do not miss the Margaritas!

La Cava Aragonesa - Of course when in Spain… Tapas are an irresistible temptation, especially with a chilled beer. A place with an incredible array of delicious pinchos & tapas is La Cava Aragonesa, which has been around since 1980. You can't miss its extensive and amazing range of delicious treats in its long bar display.

A vivacious gay scene

I was absolutely amazed by the sheer number of bars in Benidorm. They are mostly small but very diverse and they do not have cover charges, so you can go from one to the next and spend the evening sampling the variety on offer. They are also very close to each other, so there is never too far to walk - which is a good thing when one has had a few large Spanish measures… The below are my top picks:

People

A small but quite stylish bar. A mirror at the back gives the impression of there being more space, however the illusion is quickly revealed. Although, as mentioned before Benidorm is a town of small but busy bars, so make People one of your stops. Upstairs you will find the toilets and then further on is a cruising space, with a small video lounge in the middle. 

Mercury

Mercury is another small bar, also with a stylish atmosphere. Again, mirrors make the space feel a bit wider; nevertheless it's a great stop for a drink and a look at who's around. Just like at People, the gents and the cruising space are both upstairs. Which I guess make it easy to use the toilet excuse to have a quick browse and fondle… ?

Bar 69 & Royal Queens Bar

This bar is absolutely minuscule but it has one of the best locations in town as it has some tables outside (as opposed to other bars just offering standing space along the street) and a great elevated position from which you can check people walking up and down the road. Sharing the same square is the Royal Queens Bar, part of the same hotel - which also serves food and has some pretty good drag shows.

Brief Encounter

Another small bar, this one at the corner of two of the busiest gay thoroughfares, Calle Santa Faz and up from Plaza de la Constitution. It's quite a good place to start the evening and meet people before going continuing elsewhere.

Bears Bar

As the name suggests this is a place for furry guys and their friends and admirers. This is the sister bar of the homonymous venue in Sitges. There is a busy bar upstairs but the action is downstairs, where punters can find a large maze, dark spaces and play areas.